Ive spent a lot of time in Hanoi over the last 14 years, and have strong emotions about it, not of course all positive. Back in 1994, it was possible to walk around at 10 p.m. in the winter down the streets, which were basically empty of traffic, with a group of friends. There was almost no crime—it is still minimal—and people went home early in the cold. Those were the days of frequently riding two or more to a bicycle, of going for hours-long bike rides out of the city, of breathing the air without wanting a mask to protect from the fumes.
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